June arrives in Hiroshima wearing a yukata. The Toka-san festival at Enko-ji Temple is officially a summer fair — stalls, music, crowds moving slowly through the warm evening. But it is also the city's permission slip: the first time each year that people take their cotton robes out of storage and step into summer. Half a million people, the largest festival in the Chugoku region, most of them dressed as if they had all decided, quietly, to become more beautiful.