Behind each float hangs a placard mocking the times. In the port town of Tsuchizaki in Akita, summer brings a procession of bold floats topped with warrior dolls. But the festival's wit lies in the panel mounted at the back of each one, where a freshly written satirical verse comments on the year's politics and social mood. The tradition dates to the mid-Edo period, when this thriving stop on the northern shipping route saw its merchants and dockworkers vie in displays of strength. On the night of the 21st, lanterns are lit and the music quickens. To cries of "Joyasa, joyasa," the floats return to the shrine in a procession that brings the festival's excitement to its peak. Bravado and humor together, the temperament of a port town turned into a festival. A UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.