On the 21st of every month, the grounds of To-ji Temple become a market. More than a thousand stalls. Antiques, old tools, vintage clothing, ceramics, potted plants, street food, and things with no category. All of it laid out in the shadow of Japan's tallest wooden pagoda. The origin is devotional. The 21st is the anniversary of the death of Kobo Daishi — the monk Kukai, founder of Shingon Buddhism — and a memorial service has been held at To-ji on this day every month since 1239. As pilgrims began arriving in greater numbers, vendors followed. Faith produced the market. Today the crowd includes foreign antique dealers, serious collectors with lists, curious tourists, and elderly residents who come every month as a matter of habit. Bargaining is expected, and sometimes rewarded — especially late in the afternoon when sellers begin packing up. The January market (Hatsu-Kobo) and December market (Shimai-Kobo) draw the largest crowds of the year. If you are in Kyoto on the 21st, go in the morning.