"Fools who dance, fools who watch — if you're going to be a fool, you might as well dance." This chant, sung to the rhythm of shamisen and taiko, has echoed through the streets of Tokushima every August for over 400 years. The origin is debated. Some trace it to 1587, when feudal lord Hachisuka Iemasa opened the gates of his newly built castle and invited the townspeople to celebrate. Others point to the Bon festival traditions of welcoming the spirits of the dead. Either way, the dancing has never stopped. Performers belong to groups called ren, some with histories stretching back more than a century. Each has its own style, its own costumes, its own way of moving. Men dance crouched low, stomping the earth. Women extend their arms above their heads, fingertips reaching skyward — a posture that takes years to make look effortless. Outside the ticketed stages, the streets belong to everyone. No training required. The music finds you. More than one million people each year. The largest Bon dance in Japan.