In Akita, tarako means the roe of the true cod, not the pollock roe the word denotes elsewhere. The grains are coarser than pollock roe, which sounds like a disadvantage. The flavor is held to be considerably better.

Cod was a necessary fish through the winter here. It was made into tarajiru and eaten with nothing at all thrown away, and the fresh roe was valued as one part of that practice.

The cooking is simple and unhurried. Seasoned liquid is brought to the boil, shirataki goes in, and the roe is squeezed in as if from a tube and cooked down. You keep the heat under it until the grains have separated and gone dry and loose. Shredded white leek is scattered over it at the end, and that is the whole of the garnish.

In the Yuri district, where true cod is landed, it is made with nothing but shirataki and leek so that the roe itself carries the dish. Elsewhere burdock, carrot, or chikuwa go in as well. It is necessary at new year, because a food made of a great many small grains is understood as a wish for children. It is also kept as a standing side dish through the winter months, eaten with rice or with a drink. The number of grains is the whole meaning of it.