Beef small intestine, simmered with garlic chives and a great deal of cabbage. The broth is soy sauce or miso, built on bonito, kelp and chicken bone, and the offal goes in already cleaned. The chives are piled on in quantity — enough that the surface of the pot disappears under them — and nobody here thinks of them as a garnish.

It started in Fukuoka after the war, and the original was about as simple as a dish can be: offal and chives in a cheap aluminium pan, cooked in soy sauce, with nothing else in it at all. By the 1960s cooks were frying chilli in sesame oil first, adding the offal, and finishing it in a manner closer to sukiyaki than to a soup.

In 1992 it became a craze in Tokyo, sudden enough that the word itself was given an award that year among the new expressions of the season. A regional pot dish went national with its name attached, which does not happen often.

The last course used to be udon dropped into what was left of the broth. From around 1990, under the influence of people from Nagasaki living in the city, champon noodles began to be used instead, and now that is the common finish. A Fukuoka pot that ends with a Nagasaki noodle.