Sesame and miso are ground together in a suribachi. Shiso, cucumber, myoga, and ginger go in with them, and then cold water or dashi is poured in to loosen the whole thing into a dipping sauce. Udon is eaten out of it. At no point does anything go on a stove.

In Kawajima the vegetables get ground into the paste as well rather than being added whole, which is the local distinction. The name used there, suttate, is said to be a contraction of suritate, freshly ground, which is about as literal as a dish name gets.

It was named to the ministry's hundred regional dishes in 2007. This is wheat country by rotation. Rice in the main season, wheat in the off-season, and the wheat became udon, and this became what you dipped it in.

The circumstances it was made for are specific. Someone comes in from transplanting rice or cutting grass in the middle of a Kumagaya summer, with no appetite and no time, and this can still be eaten. It carries nutrition and it takes almost no work. That is why it belonged to the busy season rather than to leisure. It is passed down in Kawajima, in the Iruma area, and across the north of the prefecture. A sauce that never goes near a flame is what got people through the hottest part of the year.