The maple grove at Shuzenji turns as a mass, not as trees. Around a thousand of them stand together in the natural park above the hot spring town, and when the peak arrives — mid-November into early December — the colour fills the field of view in every direction at once. The town below keeps its own, longer calendar. One address, two autumns, half a month apart.

The grove is not wild. It was planted in 1924 to mark the incorporation of the old town of Shuzenji, with red pine, fragrant olive, azalea and cherry set among the maples so the walk would work in every season. A century on, the planting has grown into something that no longer looks planned. Inside it there is no obvious place to stop; the red simply continues. It is a difficult place to photograph and an easy place to be.

On the north side, the Fujimi lookout gives the counter-view: red in the foreground, and on a clear day Mount Fuji standing white beyond the ridges. Near and far, warm and cold, in one frame.

During the season the car park in front of the park is reserved for coaches, so leave the car in town and walk up. The approach costs you a little distance and pays you back with trees before the entrance. Finish at the lookout. Fuji is the full stop.