Contemporary art came to islands that were emptying out. In the Seto Inland Sea of Kagawa, an art festival is held once every three years across a scattering of islands. These were islands losing people, empty houses multiplying, fishing boats dwindling, the young moving away. Then the art came. A derelict house became a work; a vacant lot became a garden; the islanders became guides. Yayoi Kusama's polka dots stand by the shore; a museum descends underground; with each ferry crossing, the world changes. The festival did not save the islands, but it gave people a reason to visit again, which is a different thing. The seasons are spring, summer, and autumn, and most works are made by islanders and artists together. Come slowly, by boat, with the smell of the tide. A true journey, once every three years.