The Kumamoto prefectural tourism site gives the season at Kikuchi Gorge as mid to late November — later than most of the island, and late enough that it is often the last good week in the region.

The gorge sits at the headwaters of the Kikuchi river under a cover of natural broadleaf forest. Its local nickname is the natural air conditioner: the water holds an average of thirteen degrees the year round, which makes it a refuge in August and puts rime ice on the branches in winter. In November it simply means the air by the water is colder than the car park.

A path runs up the valley and the falls arrive one after another along it. Kakemaku, named for the silver screen hung at the back of a stage. Reimei, dawn, for the way the spray stands in the air like early mist. Then Tengu falls, eight metres, where mountain ascetics are said to have washed. Shijusanman is at the top. The naming is old and observational, and it survives better than most signage.

There is a glass-walled visitor centre with a terrace and light food, which matters on a cold morning. The gorge keeps a defined open season and set hours, and asks a small maintenance contribution from high school age up. Both are worth checking before you set out, because the season closes at the end of November — within days of the colour finishing.