Inujima had a copper refinery that operated for just a decade before closing in 1919, leaving behind smokestacks and furnace buildings that now house contemporary art. The island is a twenty-minute ferry ride from the Okayama coast and receives a fraction of the visitors that go to Naoshima. This is the point. The art here — installations that use the refinery's thermal mass to regulate temperature without electricity, works that reference the novelist Mishima Yukio in ways that take time to understand — requires the silence that comes with being overlooked. The buildings are only partly restored. The industrial ruins are present as ruins, not as backdrop. The combination is unlike anything on the more famous islands of the Setouchi art network. Inujima rewards visitors who come without expectations calibrated by Naoshima. It is a smaller place, a quieter place, and in some ways a more serious one — the encounter between modern art and modern industrial decline conducted without the reassurance of crowds and gift shops. The ferry schedule limits how long you can stay, which turns out to be enough.