Dogo Onsen is one of the oldest hot springs in Japan — old enough to appear in the Man'yoshu poetry anthology, old enough that its founding is simply listed as 'antiquity.' People have been coming here to soak for a very long time, which gives the morning market nearby a particular kind of continuity. The market serves the residents of Matsuyama who want locally grown citrus, fresh fish from the Seto Inland Sea, and the tofu the city produces. But it is open to anyone who arrives in the morning — and the experience of shopping there, still warm from the bath, moving among people who know exactly what they want, is a way of inhabiting Dogo rather than just visiting it. Ehime prefecture produces a range of citrus that the rest of Japan considers exceptional: the ponkan tangerine, the iyokan, the dekopon. At the morning market, these appear at prices reflecting where they were grown, not where they were shipped. The combination of bath and market is the correct Dogo morning.