A whole-fish sushi made along the Miyazaki coast, and particularly associated with Kadogawa, which was territory administered directly by the shogunate during the Edo period.
The old account is that officials arriving from the capital to administer that territory looked forward to this specifically. Mackerel and horse mackerel are the usual fish, though sardine and barracuda are used too, and locally the version made only with winter mackerel, when the fat is on it and the flesh is at its best, is spoken of as the finest.
The lineage is thought to run back to the whole-fish sushi of Shikoku, carried across the water by people who moved from there to the Miyazaki side.
It was made without fail for the winter festivals, as a proper feast dish that took effort. But it was also, at the same time, entirely ordinary. Peddlers came round the villages with fresh fish landed from the Hyuga Sea, so households could put one of these together without needing much of an occasion. So the same object served both as a thing an official from the capital waited for, and as something you assembled that afternoon because a man had come to the door holding a mackerel.
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