In autumn 2006 a forum was convened to think about food in the newly enlarged city of Kitami. The editor of Hokkaido Jalan suggested creating a dish that belonged to the place. A promotion council was formed the following February, and from April restaurants in the city began serving it.

There are eight rules, and they read like a specification rather than a recipe.

The noodles must be made principally from wheat grown in Hokkaido. Scallops from the Sea of Okhotsk go in, and they go in instead of pork. Onions from Kitami go in instead of cabbage. The seasoning is salt, not sauce. It is served on an iron griddle rather than a plate, and even the disposable chopsticks are a Hokkaido-made type the council specifies.

The salt sauce itself carries Kitami onion and scallop stock, finished with salt made from Okhotsk seawater and nothing else. Kitami sits between the Daisetsuzan mountains and the Sea of Okhotsk, and it grows or lands a great deal of what it eats, which is the condition the whole exercise was built on. What the sea gives and what the fields give were put on one griddle, and then written down in eight lines so nobody could drift from it.