The dancers wear the masks of demons and carry swords, and the dance they perform is fast, percussive, and formally structured — a Buddhist-influenced ritual designed to expel malevolent spirits that has been practiced in the Kitakami region for centuries. The oni of Kitakami are not the oni of horror stories; they are forces recruited to protect, their ferocity turned against malevolence rather than directed toward humans. The Michinoku Geino Matsuri in early August brings together oni kenbai groups from across the region for three days of performances — multiple troupes, each with their own interpretation of the tradition, the differences in costume and movement visible to anyone who watches more than one group. The event is held outdoors in central Kitakami, and the combination of the summer night, the drumming, and the masked figures moving at speed produces an atmosphere that does not require context to feel. Kitakami is known to most Japanese travelers for the cherry blossoms at Tenshochi in spring. The August festival is a reason to return in a different season, and it offers a different understanding of what this part of Iwate is.